"Footprints of the Raj: Hiking the Historic David Scott Trail"
- debanjana banerjee
- Dec 15, 2023
- 5 min read
Updated: Dec 16, 2023
Thinking about that first-ever backpacking trip hits differently. Leh, Ladakh, Goa, Manali, or maybe even jet-setting beyond regular horizons—it's like choosing your vibe. Each spot brings its own flavor, from Leh's chill landscapes to Goa's lit beaches and Manali's stunning scenes. And who knows, maybe you're eyeing international stories too. Imagine the thrill, and the total glow-up that comes with that first backpacking adventure. It's not just a trip; it's a whole mood waiting to happen. 🌍✨
Picture this: Solo travellers navigating through the uncharted beauty, unravelling unique traditions, and immersing themselves in the untouched allure of the North East.
Embarking on a journey beyond the ordinary, where travel is not just about ticking off a bucket list but about experiencing the essence of a place, I invite you to join me on a trip through my lens. Working in the heart of the Northeast, I've had the privilege of immersing myself in the warm embrace of the locals, sharing meals from the same kitchen, and discovering the hidden tales often obscured by political, geographical, or cultural ignorance.
In 2021, my adventure began with One in the Orange Jacket (OJ) - a travel group that promised more than just ticking destinations off a list. The first stop? Umiam Lake (Barapani), an artificial gem nestled amidst hills and greenery that captivates with its tranquil beauty.
Traveling into less-explored territories requires connecting with the right people, and my magic moment happened with OJ. Day one unfolded with an introduction to the sacred traditions of Mawphlang - the Moss-Covered Stone village. This mystical forest, spanning 193 acres, is protected by the Lyngdoh clan.
At the forest entrance stand monoliths, where village elders seek permission from the deity for rituals. A leopard sighting is considered auspicious, while a snake signals abandonment. The forest entrance forms a 'green tunnel,' a natural canopy of tree branches. Inside, the symphony of songbirds, crickets, buzzing bees, and gurgling streams serenades the surroundings.
The Khasi people revere 'Labasa,' a deity believed to protect the forest, taking the form of a leopard or tiger during crises. As I navigated these sacred grounds, the tales and traditions unfold, painting a vivid picture of a culture deeply connected to nature and spirituality.
Then we set on a journey that spans 16 kilometers, retracing the historic trail etched by British administrator David Scott in the early 1800s. Having recently completed this odyssey, I'm excited to share the tales of this adventure—a trek that transcends physical distances and unfolds into a tapestry of historical narratives and the serenity of nature.
Trailhead Beginnings:
Our expedition commenced at the trailhead, a 100-kilometer route weaving through dense forests, silent trails, and picturesque landscapes. As we delved deeper into the woods, the river vanished from sight, and towering pine trees and old arched bridges became our steadfast companions.
Sacred Monoliths and Folklore:
Venturing about 12 kilometers into the trail, we encountered sacred monoliths revered by the Khasi people. The legendary Mawnguid-Briew, Elephant Hill, the Crocodile sitting on the rock, and the Mansion on a rock stood as silent witnesses to tales woven through time. An old Khasi song further added a mystical touch to the already enchanting Mawnguid Briew.
Camping Amidst Nature's Canvas:
You can rest your weary feet at the Pine Hill Campsite, a safe haven for solo travellers, nightfall will bring in the serene magic of the forest. The rustling of leaves and the soft gurgle of nearby streams provid a peaceful backdrop to your camping experience.
Floral Embroidery and Wildlife Whispers:
The David Scott trail unfolded like a canvas painted with wildflowers such as Spanish Shawl and dew grass, enticing us to indulge in photography sessions. With a keen eye, we spotted frogs and rare insects near water bodies, adding an extra layer of discovery to our trek.
Cultural Immersion and Sustainable Living:
Immersing ourselves in the Khasi culture, we witnessed traditions, rituals, and a profound respect for nature deeply embedded in the community. The commitment to sustainable living practices resonated strongly, showcasing a dedication to preserving the pristine beauty of the region for centuries.
Sections Unveiled:
Exploring the trail in sections, from Mawphlang village to the Trailhead (0 Point) and beyond:
Section 1: Mawphlang village to Trailhead (0 Point)
Embarking on the David Scott trek, the trail weaved through Nongrum village, starting at the elevated Zero Point (6,050 feet). This spot, a pivotal identifier, pulses with the essence of the trek. Local shops offer refreshments, creating a shared experience that benefits the Khasi community. It's more than a trail; it's a journey intertwined with local life.
Section 2: Trailhead to Ka kor shon mai
Embarking on the trek, the journey officially began at the trailhead, covering a mere 500 meters. The path is was straightforward, flat terrain, occasionally rocky, demanding proper trekking shoes and trekking poles for added support. Half a kilometer in, we discovered the cozy resting haven, Ka kor shon mai.
If camping beckons, the Pine Hill Campsite offers a safe haven under the open skies. Here, camaraderie awaits, with local guides often orchestrating camping activities, ensuring a memorable night amidst nature's embrace.
Section 3: Ka kor shon mai to Mawkorsahep (Mawshep)
Embarking on the next leg, a 1.5 km journey from Ka kor shon mai lead to a gradual descent on a muddy, winding trail, winding through lush greenery. As we navigated the mountainside, catching occasional glimpses of a river meandering down the slopes. Mawkorsahep awaited, revealing Simpanghang waterfalls, and further down, the tombstone-marked Mawshep emerged, a poignant tribute to a child named Camilla since 1843. Beyond the tomb, a thin forest trail descended to Lynkienwar and Umiam River, revealing a serene view of the Umiam river and a portion of the Mawphlang Dam.
Section 4: Mawkorsahep to Suspension Bridge
Hiking 3 km on a winding path, occasionally ascending to the military-built Suspension Bridge at Weidung—a steel gateway floating over Umiam River, offering scenic views. We continued to Laithsohma village after a brief break.
Section 5: Suspension Bridge to Laithsohma Village
Embarking on a 3 km stretch, following the winding gravel path with intermittent ascents to the military-built Suspension Bridge at Weidung. This steel marvel spans the Umiam River, providing a breathtaking view. After a short break, continuing 4 km to Laithsohma village. Traversing a rocky trail, we reached the Wahtham valley, a serene pitstop at 1525 meters elevation, where a crystal-clear stream awaited. Crossing the river on rocks, then ascending through thick forests to the welcoming Laithsohma village. Enjoyed a lunch break amid playful puppies and locals offering red tea and sweet blackberries. Relishing the warmth of this Khasi haven, a popular Maggi point, and greeting the villagers with a "kublei" before proceeding to the arch bridge.
Section 6: Laithsohma Village to the arch bridge
Trekking 3 km, crossing the village, onto a flat plateau towards the arch bridge. The terrain was pleasantly flat, inviting a quicker pace. Lush green meadows with natural ponds and streams provide a visual treat, offering opportunities for a refreshing swim. Continuing until we discovered a medieval stone arch bridge, then witnessed massive rock formations leading to the legendary Mawnguid-Briew—a colossal rock structure with a cliff cut in the middle, immortalized in a Khasi song https://youtu.be/slEaREwwenc and an old folktale. The trail narrowed, revealing monoliths dating back to the Megalithic period, accompanied by unexpected diversions.
Section 7: Arch Bridge to Lad Mawphlang
In the final 4 km stretch, Mawphlang village and Sacred groves greeted us as we turned back. A leisurely 2 km walk on nearly flat terrain brought us to the serene Kor Parkti stone bench. Descending for another 2 km, reaching the Wah-Umiong river, marked the transition from Mawphlang to Lad Mawphlang forests. Lad Mawphlang, nestled at the valley's end, serveed as the David Scott trail's final resting place.
Closing Thoughts:
What initially felt like an endless hike transformed into a profound experience—a journey through time and nature. Reaching the exit point, absorbing the grandeur of the Khasi hills, we realized that if peace had a moment, the David Scott trek would be it. Following the trail without diversions, climbing to Sohra Main Road, and continuing towards our destination, we left behind our footprints in a timeless story.
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